Very rarely shrubs have such a beautiful scent that they stop people in their tracks.
There is one of these special shrubs in my neighbourhood, close to a church. When passing it for the first time in early spring years ago, and smelling a beautiful sweet all-encompasing scent, I could not place it at all. I stopped and circled back and forth for a few metres, looking for other people on the street who might wear that beautiful perfume. Not seeing a human being or another possible origin, sniffing around in amazement, I finally I understood that the smell came from the little half opened pink buds and white flowers of an inconspicuous shrub at the fence of the church grounds.
Not knowing the name of the plant, I started to research it. Most of my friends thought it was a jasmine bush, when I explained how the flowers looked and sent a photo, but finally I settled on viburnum. The German name of the plant is Duftschneeball, meaning literally scented snowball. This relates to its early bloom and the cluster of flowers that have the size and whiteness of a snowball. In their early stages, the buds are rose-pink, but the flowers later are snow white.
It became a habit to pass by the shrub as often as possible during its approximately 3 weeks of its blossoming time in early spring every year. Viburnum blooms directly after the cherries and most of the years before the magnolias, always depending on the weather. When the 3 weeks are over, the shrub returns to its usual unprepossessing self, till the next spring comes. Cherries and magnolias have the more beautiful, bigger flowers, but when it comes to scent, it is viburnum that marks the end of the scentless wintertime. To avoid disappointment – after the very positive first experience with a real viburnum shrub, I ran to every one I saw to recreate the smell sensation. But it seems to be only a small portion of bushes that do have the perfume quality. All of them have the same nice little flowers, though.
The scent of the flowers is strong. Strong and sweet and feminine to the core. Some of this is explained though the Viburnum shrubs belonging to the family of moschatel plants (Adoxaceae). Yes, the scent smells like a highly dosed, radiant, tooth-aching, plant-based sweet musk.
The colour of everything viburnum is a deep rose pink!
After the perfume overdose of the shrub, and looking for another way to give myself that treat instead of lurking around the bush, I looked for scents that include viburnum.
It was a depressing search; nothing came up apart from Laura Tonatto’s “Viburnum”. I bought it and opened it, awaiting the shrub’s scent. But no, unfortunately, it does not smell like viburnum. It is not a bad scent, but is more like a soft tuberose and jasmine parfum, mixed with other flowers. I put it on the shelf and rarely used it.
The intention to write this post was the reason I had a closer look again. During the preparation, whilst reading comments on the Fragrantica and Parfumo platforms, I came across a comment of Fragrantica user “Saffron” dated 07/07/2021. “Saffron” complained about Laura Tonattos perfume not smelling like viburnum, and – much more important – wrote that her signature perfume “Boudoir” of Vivienne Westwood was said to have viburnum as the main ingredient. This was interesting news, an old bottle of “Boudoir” being part of my collection as well. When testing it I immediately noted it might be true, but to be safe I waited for the shrub to bloom again. I visited it today and it is true.
If you want the real smell, the overwhelmingly sweet and feminine, the all-encompassing musk flower scent of a true viburnum, then “Boudoir” is your scent. I want to say buy it, it is worth it, but what “Saffron” noted in her post two years ago is also true. “Boudoir” is not longer produced. Maybe, as “Saffron” indicated, this is all part of an anti-viburnum conspiracy. It is a little bit depressing to find the true viburnum scent finally, although it had rested so long in my collection, just to realize that the 20ml left might be the last of it.
Reading the official ingredient list of “Boudoir”, viburnum is no part of it. The list names aldehyds, orange blossom, hyacinth, carnation, jasmine, coriander, cardamom, iris, tobacco flower, vanilla, and sandalwood, to name a few. The nose behind it is Martin Gras, a relatively unknown perfumer.
I stopped wearing “Bourdoir” to the office years ago, after a colleague complained about it being too strong. Indeed, it is not exactly a perfume for the office. It is better suited for a date and is very clearly not a perfume for someone wanting to be overlooked. It was designed and brought to the market by punk Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood in 1998.
I remember I smelled it for the first time, and wanted it, and that it was too expensive for me back then. But still it became one of my first perfumes, although I forgot when and how long I only ate spaghetti afterwards.
How fascinating that the brain sticks with its favourite scents forever. The perfume back then, the shrub probably 20 years later. How nice it is to rediscover something and feel the same, a bit like meeting an old friend again and to note he has not changed. Difficult to understand why one lost contact at a certain time in life.
Vivienne Westwood lounged other perfumes, none of which I know. She died in December 2022 and left a unique fashion legacy. As if that was not enough, she had been engaged deeply in topics important to her, ranging from human rights to climate action an animal protection. Probably she was a little radical sometimes, but if you are a true original, a lot of things are excused. Let us see who (and when!) dares to take up the quest of making a true viburnum perfume after she did it so gracefully.