Discovering Parfuemerie Brueckner of Munich as a high-quality brand of perfumes was unexpected. And what a brand! They show themselves responsible for various lines, from M8 Moods to Philly&Phil, and the classical collection of “Les Femmes”, “Les Hommes”, “Les Orientales” etc.
I own quite a few of their scents by now from the various lines, and it is wonderful that there are still real niche fragrances produced. This goes for M8 Moods and the classic line. They are both only available in the stores of Parfuemerie Brueckner in Munich or online through their website. Philly&Phil is the exception here, those fragrances follow a different marketing concept and are traded in high luxury perfumeries around the world.
In this article “Un Peu de Musc” plays the central role, a clear, radiant, soft, and sweet fragrance that comes from the “Les Femmes” collection. Clearly meant for “her” only, the scent is like a cocoon that engulfs her wearer. It is pure and classical, not fancy. There is no change of the scent over time, the smell is immediately present and needs no development. It stays strong from the start, and has an excellent silage and durability.
The Parfuemerie Brueckner website tells us of the scent notes gardenia, rose, white blossoms, jasmine, white musk, amber and wood. Musk hits the target best. Pure, sweet, soft musk. So how to describe musk, a scent note that basically no one has smelt in nature? It is like a white canvas that you can fill with life and colours according to your capabilities. The capabilities of Parfuemerie Brueckner were expertly developed.
“Un Peu de Musc” is not natural, nothing I know smells like this, certainly no flower. It is closer to what pure sugar tastes, or a sugar-coated raspberry or a sugar-coated rose, or even more, like a dessert made out of baisser and frozen raspberries. Please note – “Un Peu de Musc” doesn’t smell like it. The flavour you taste when eating one of the above, transformed into a smell, that would be the best description. Simplicity does not mean it is easy.
The colour of the scent is pure white.
Parfuemerie Brueckner’s owners are very proud of their history as a supplier of goods to the Royal Court of Bavaria. Bavaria did not have any kings after 1918; the history of Parfuemerie Brueckner in perfumes and fine soaps is a long one.
In the year 1893 an enterprising couple, the original Mr. and Mrs. Brueckner, founded the shop in central Munich. After 10 years they moved to the location where they are still today – the Marienplatz next to the town hall of Munich. In the years after, there were two wars, a lot of confusion, and nothing is known to me of the Brueckner family’s fate.
A new player came to the scene in 1952: entrepreneurial Margarethe Bublitz, described by her heirs as a grand dame of Munich’s perfume society. She was in her late 30s / early 40s when she took over Parfuemerie Brueckner and brought back success big time. It is her family that runs the business today, namely her son Horst and granddaughter Tanja. Tanja Bublitz’ daughter Laura is today part of the family business as well. The tradition goes on.
On their company website the family offers a book on the 130-year history of Parfuemerie Brueckner that can also be read online. It is worthwhile. In times of oversupply of everything, of consolidation of many different brands under one roof (e.g. LVMH or Estee Lauder), there are a few who hold on to their roots and survive through deep knowledge of their trade, the ability to make the right decisions at the right time, and flexibility.
As one needs friends and partners to work with, Parfuemerie Brueckner and the Maison M.Micaleff of Grasse cooperate on the perfumes of the house-owned lines. Tanja Bublitz and Geoffrey Nejma of M.Micaleff only launch few new perfumes of the classical line and M8 Moods per year. On each of the perfume boxes the cooperation is named: “Perfume & Design by M.Micaleff”.
The bottles come with the classical M.Micaleff cap, and some pretty decorations like rhinestones. Unfortunately, you can see that not too well on the picture of my bottle of “Un Peu de Musc”.
There is craftmanship, and trust in tradition as a strong bond between the two companies. Both are owned by families proud on doing things their own way. Let us hope houses like theirs survive difficult times in the future as they did many times in the past.
One of the most serious dangers to the survival of small players is the buy-out by a big company for lots of money. Often the reason behind this is to own the brand name and take over the customers. Only sometimes the brand is allowed to thrive to new hights under the new ownership.
Whilst I wish the Bublitz family all the money in the world, I do hope they withstand temptation and continue as they do right now. As a small, but strong niche brand with a unique and true tradition, and many happy customers.